The Duck Dive #13
The exquisite moments not to be overlooked
I’m fresh out of the water from a surf, and it had been a while. In fact, I had forgotten what it was like - the feels, the scents, the tastes, the thoughts, the excitements… all these things intrinsically linked to a sesh ! Surfing doesn’t start when you get to your feet and stop when you fall off your board. So here’s a non-exhaustive, to-be-completed list of what's to love about going for a surf - exquisite moments not to be overlooked.
Seeing decent conditions online
Dreaming about speed bursts and tunnel visions the night before
The excitement of preparing a board
Wax smells
Opening the door of the car to go check the waves (largely overlooked peak of excitement)
Analysing how the water moves and where the goodies break
Car-park acquaintances
Disagreeing with a mate about how good the conditions are
Picturing yourself in the the water from the sand
Rushing in your dry wetsuit
Strapping your leash
The cold bite from your first foot in the water
The one from your first head dip
Paddling with fresh shoulders
Arriving at the line up and sitting straight
Peeing in your wetsuit (controversial…)
Glassy waters
Getting cleaned up by a big set with everyone else
That stranger’s “Go, go, go !”
The sensory explosion after a goodie
Telling your mate about it immediately
That stranger’s “I’m going left.”
Being part of the lucky few not getting cleaned up by a big set (that’s good too)
Seeing someone else get a goodie
The sun’s green reflection in the waves
Fog and rain are also very cool
The sentence you couldn’t finish because a wave came your way
Waving back to friends beaching
The “Fuck it!” thought as you paddle into a bomb
Easy duck dives you knew you’d make
Miraculous duck dives you never thought you’d make
Good wetsuits that keep you warm
Unexpected hold-downs that make you go back to sand
Realising the waves aren’t that big
Praying for one last goodie as you go back out
Getting it !
The feeling of accomplishment as you come back in
Answering the “How was it ?” questions
Seeing other guys rip a wave properly from the beach
Sore arms and salty hair
The “he was sick, he was shit” talk after
The hot bath after
The cold beers after
And seeing decent conditions online again
Song of the week
IG of the week
Hey ducky , here are some few others :
The pain on the ribs at the beginning of the second session
The laughy moment when you see your friend just behind you getting destroyed in the impact zone while you've just made it
Seeing your friend starting a duck dive but finally deciding to bail out
The decision to stay out a bit longer than others and waves starting to get better